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1/14/00 - This posts page was supposed to be a compilation of our thoughts leading up to and during the climb and posts from other climbers that I could find. Tragically, just a over two weeks ago 3 Russian/American climbers fell to their deaths on Orizaba, a grim reminder of the dangers of mountaineering, and an all too real message to be careful when we arrive Jan. 29th.

Press release by the Black Alpinist

Description of Tragedy by Team Member

3 Russian American Climbers Die in Millenuim Climb on Orizaba

1/3/00 - Posting by Rodulfo Araujo (Mexican climber and frequent contributor): The information is still confusing and partial. This party of 6 Russians and Russian-Americans climbed unguided from Coscomatepec on the NE route, with the intention of returning to high camp and then traverse to the North route (the normal route) and descend to Piedra Grande and Tlachichuca. On December 28th all 6 reached the summit but only 3 made it back to high camp. The other 3 were last seen not too far behind. A search was conducted for 8 days by the Alpine Rescue, Red Cross, local guiding companies (Reyes, Canchola-Limon, Manolo), the military, Civil Protection and others. The bodies were found today and carried down by a helicopter. There is no assessment yet on what happened but seems to be a fall.
This is a provisional list of the dead:

  • Vladimir Smirnov
  • Irina Libova
  • Ilya Krasik
    And the three survivors are:
  • Ilya Timofeev
  • Igor Slepchin
  • Ljuba Ivanova

    From Vladimir's website (he's a guide)
    On December 28 1999, a group of three mountaineers disappeared while descending after having reached the summit of Orizaba peak. They were

  • Ilya Krasik, 42.
  • Irina Libova, 23
  • Vladimir Smirnov, 29 (the Black Alpinist's founder)
    Searching efforts by three other members of the team, and a group of experienced Austrian mountaineers were soon joined by the rescue effort mounted by US Embassy in Mexico and Mexican authorities. The rescuers from the US First Response Rescue Group were on their way too... The bodies were discovered by a helicopter crew on January 3rd 2000. According to preliminary reports, they veered off the routine path close to the high camp at dusk time and slipped on an icy slope where self-arrest (stopping) can sometimes be extremely difficult. Autopsies confirmed instant death.
    Irina Libova, a biology graduate student from MIT is survived by her parents and sister in Mountain View, California. Vladimir Smirnov, a web developer and programmer from Boston, Massachusetts, is survived by his mother and sister in Russian Federation. Ilya Krasik, a mechanical engineer from Boston, Massachusetts is survived by his parents, daughter and son, and a brother.
    Our deepest sympathies and sincere condolences go to the families and other friends of the deceased. We all would like to thank:
  • The Embassy of the United States in Mexico city, Mexico
  • Massachusetts Institute of Technology
  • Mexican Federal and local authorities
  • The rescue groups
  • for their efforts in search and discovery of our friends.

    From Yahoo:
    Tuesday January 4 3:50 AM ET
    Bodies of Russian Climbers Found
    MEXICO CITY (AP) - The bodies of three Russian mountain climbers missing since last week on the Pico de Orizaba, Mexico's highest peak, have been found, the government news agency Notimex reported. The bodies were recovered by a state rescue unit Monday, the news agency said. The climbers were identified as Vladimir Smirnoff, 29, Liya Crafic, 42, and Irina Lilibova, 23.
    Puebla state secretary Carlos Alberto Julian y Nacer told Notimex that the three had been missing since Dec. 28. They were trying to climb the 18,810-foot Pico de Orizaba in southeastern Mexico. He said the three bodies were located by a search helicopter Sunday in a ravine northeast of the peak. The bodies, apparently frozen, were brought down from the snow-covered mountainside one-by-one in a helicopter. The Televisa television network reported that one of the climbers appeare to have slipped and may have caused all three to fall down a steep incline. The state secretary said an autopsy would be performed and the bodies would be turned over to the Russian consulate in Mexico City.

    From abc.com:
    MEXICO CITY, Jan 3 (Reuters) -
    Three Russian climbers on Monday were found dead from hypothermia on Mexico's highest peak, Orizaba, in the centre of the country, officials said. Rescuers found their corpses in a cave on the icy, cone-shaped mountain, which is some 18,700 feet (5610 metres) above sea level, said Puebla state interior secretary Carlos Alberto Julian. The missing three were identified as expedition chief Illiya Krafik, 42, Irina Libova, 23, and Vladimir Smirnoff, 29. They were known to have set off five days earlier for Orizaba, which is 125 miles (200 km) east of Mexico City. Julian said arrangements were under way to send the bodies back to Russia. Director of the state Civil Protection unit Seproci Guillermo Melgarejo, said the climbers came from Boston, where they had been studying. A fourth climber, Luba Ivanova, 27, descended suffering from altitude sickness after climbing part-way up the mountain, Melgarejo said. Orizaba, also known as Citlaltepetl (Star Mountain), is the third-highest summit in North America. The steep, icy peak is sometimes scaled in two days, with an overnight stay in a lodge, but the hazardous climb is not meant to be a several-day venture. The Peak of Orizaba, on the border of Puebla and Veracruz states, is some 85 miles (140 km) from the Gulf of Mexico.

    Our team debate that ensued:

  • John Taylor: Here are my two cents worth....... Depends on the terrain but I agree that to rope up is to almost require a running belay. That said, depending on the cover and self-arrest possibility, roping up can be a good idea. Guess we will have to evaluate as we go........
  • Jim Madsen: It IS an interesting debate...I prefer to rope but would be comfortable NOT to rope up if that's the consensus with everyone else...
  • Todd Jewell: My two cents: Adds fuel to the debate about whether or not to rope up on a steep snow/ice route without crevasses. Roping up without pro (running belay) seems real stupid as one fall WILL pull off the other two (or three). Without a running belay I'd rather go solo (unroped). There are exceptions but in general I'd vote that ropes are for belaying and crevasse fields, not for tying climbers together. What are everybody's thoughts and experiences/observations? Read the rec.climbing postings on my old web page for more discussion on ropes: http://www.tjewell.com/Climb_Mx/climb_on.htm The oft quoted Orizaba joke is that Mexican Search and Rescue prefers climbers to rope up because it's easier to spot four bodies roped together at the bottom of the glacier than a single! Sad to say this was just proven once again (read Accidents in North American Mountaineering for more cases).

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