Orizaba from Tlachichuca


El Pico de Orizaba (Citlaltepetl) is the third largest mountain in North America. The Citlaltepetl, or Pico de Orizaba, is the highest stratovolcano in Mexico with an elevation of 5,675m, rising over an asymmetrical topography of about 2,900 m to the west, and about 4,300 m to the east. It is located at the eastern end of the Mexican Volcanic Belt. It forms a steep cone which is covered by lava flows and ash last erupting in 1566 and 1687. Cities and towns around the volcano have an approximate population of 500,000 people. The combined chararcteristics of being a large volcanic edifice with steep slopes, historic activity, and dense nearby population are favourable to induce several kinds of volcanic hazardous processes, especially gravity driven events such as lahar or even debris avalanches. Orizabo is a popular climb for Mexican nationals and visitors alike. It's non-technical terrain and high summitt (18,410 ft.) make it a great starter mountain for those interest in testing their physiology at higher altitudes. During the dry season, from January thru April, the huts at Piedra Grande (the base of the Jampa Glacier or normal route) and the hostels or dormitories in Tlachichuca are filled to capacity with eager climbers set to test their mettle on Orizaba.


The Bus Station in Mexico City
Want to get to Orizaba safely and inexpensively, try the Mexican bus system. Massive upgrades to Mexican public transportation allow for new air conditioned coaches all the way to Tlachichuca (about 170 miles). From the Mexico City airport, take a cab to the bus station. Make your way to the ticket counter and buy a ticket to Tlachichuca (pronounced Lach-i-chu-ka). You will make one stop in Puebla to change busses on the way. Oversee the transfer of your gear to the new bus in Puebla to insure it all makes it to your final destination. Bus ticket are CHEAP, and the ride is relaxing. You'll pass some other impressive volcano's on the way, including Popocatepetl or "Popo" at 17,930 (closed to climbers because of recent volcanic activity), Iztaccihuatl or "Ixta" at 17,160 ft. another popular climb and a long hump, and La Malinche, just north of Puebla at 14,640 ft., a great acclimitazation hike in preparation for Orizabo.

Dr. Reyes helps schlep gear.
Accomodations and transportation are now plentiful in Tlachichuca, the jumping off point for Orizaba. We hang out with the Reyes family, the oldest outfitter in town. The older Sr. Reyes has been accomodating climbers for many years and is somewhat of a legend in Mexican mountaineering. His son, a Doctor in Mexico City and his wife have taken over day to day activities at the Compound, and they and their staff are most hospitible. The Reyes store and compound is a good 1/2 mi. walk from the bus station in Tlachichuca, and at 8,530 ft. loaded down with gear, it's your first hump at altitude.

Sorting Gear in the Reyes Gear Room
The Reyes' have converted an old soap factory into a great hostel for climbers with a gear room, hot showers, toilet facilities and about 20 beds (bunks) upstairs. There is a register to sign downstairs in the living room/reading area. Take time to read some of the great stories written there and leave your own. If the sleeping area is full, good sleep is not easy as the noise is formidible. Earplugs are a sure cure. The Reyes' also provide access to white gas, groceries, bottled water and transportation to the huts at Piedra Grande. For two nights lodging (before and after the climb), two dinners, transportation to and from the mountain and a gear guard at the hut we paid $ 115 US dollars each this year.

Ready to Load Up


Camping at 11,800
Transportation to and from Piedra Grande is provided by 60's vintage Dodge Power Wagons . The open air ride is very dusty and we recommend bringing a bandana just for this leg. For lowlanders we also suggest not going immediately from Tlachichuca to Piedra Grande, but stopping off for a night and full day of tent camping at about 11,800 ft. in the pine forest just above Hildalgo (the highest community in North America at 11,155 ft.). The stopover at 11,800 allows for some good red blood cell building before moving up to 14,000 ft. Just relax, lay around and drink gallons of water. If everything is working right you should be gulping down lots of water and needing to pee seemingly about every 10 minutes.










Piedra Grande is located at 13,955 ft. at the base of the Jampa Glacier or Routa Normal up the mountain. Located at Piedra Grande are two huts accomodating climbers. The older corrugated metal Augusto Pellet hut sleeps six to eight climbers and the newer stone Octavio Alvarez Hut is much larger with two 3 high bunk platforms accomodating about 30 climbers when full. There's plenty of room for tent camping should the huts be filled. Piedra Grande has a permanent outhouse-like toilet (no door) perched high on some rocks just below the huts, and a piped runoff from the glacier where you can get water. Bring large plastic purified water bottles (agua purificado plastica grande) to the hut from Tlachichuca and use the glacier water (if needed) for food preparation after boiling it thoroughly, you don't want to get the squirts at Piedra Grande or anywhere else for that matter.

Grab the Pellet hut if you have a party of 4-8 and it's empty, sleeping is much easier there as the Alvarez hut is a no sleep zone of coughing, talking, snoring, stoves burning all the time and teams arising each night between 12:00 and 2:00 AM for the summit assult. Tent camping at Piedra may be a better alternative to the Alvarez hut should the wind not be blowing gale force as it often does. Wherever you bed down make sure you bring earplugs, they make for a peacful nights rest. Again for lowlanders, don't be suprised if you feel "funny" or "not so funny" after spending the night at Piedra Grande. You may be light headed, a little nauseous and have some really great headaches. You're acclimating. Don't charge off and climb to the base of the glacier right away, listen to your body, if it's rebelling lay low, drink, rest, drink, eat, drink some more and build red blood cells.

  • Home
  • The Itenerary
  • The Posts